Saturday, June 20 - Day 2 - Les Contamines to Refuge des Mottets via Les Chapieux

Our description from Macs Adventure brochure stated "a gentle start from Les Contamines for the first 4k (2.5 miles) along the valley floor to the chapel at Notre Dame de la Gorge (shuttle transfer possible). Here the path turns upwards and climbs steadily on the Chemin Roman (Roman Road) through the Contamines Montjoie Nature Reserve towards the distant Col du Bonhomme. A steady climb reveals increasingly rugged views of the high peaks and you quickly reach the rugged landscapes of the Col du Bonhomme (7,641 feet). A further hour on rough and rocky ground brings up the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. Here you can climb over the Col des Fours (8,743 ft) and descend steeply to Refuge des Mottets or alternatively descend to Les Chapieux. Walk to Les Chapieux of  - 11 miles with 4,317 ft of ascent and 3,047 ft descent - 7.5 hours OR walk to Refuge des Mottets via Col des Fours of  - 12.5 miles with 5,180 ft of ascent and 2,833 ft of descent - 8 hours."

Last night at dinner we saw a couple several tables away who we thought were walking the Tour du Mont Blanc. They looked to be around our age. As we left the hotel this morning, their huge suitcases were being picked up to be transported ahead. They were having breakfast and then would take the shuttle to Notre Dame de la Gorge (skipping 2.5 miles). I mention this only because we saw them later in the day and spoke briefly with them; our destinations were the same Refuge des Mottets.

We headed out on a beautiful morning about 8 am for Notre Dame de la Gorge and it was a gentle start as noted above.

We enjoyed the sound of the river running nearby, passed through the park and camping area and arrived at Notre Dame de la Gorge.

Of course, I went in for a little visit.

Stoney did not join me. He was interested in a group of students and learned they were from a college in Oxford, England. He spoke with one of the professors (except they are not addressed in this manner by the students. Students call the professor by his first name).
It was at this point that as the description above mentions - the path turned upward ... and upward and it was good-bye to "gentle."

 
Looking back at the college students who have begun the climb and would eventually pass us.

Still upwards on the old Roman Road ....a 4x4 passed us. Of course, Stoney chats with him.

Stoney begins to walk and chat with one of the professors who is in exercise physiology; this trip is part of the curriculum. Students keep track of their heart rates, take notes and at the end various tests will be done to see if this trek has made them stronger.

Roman Bridge

Looking at a waterfall just down from the bridge

We continue our climb

and, thankfully, arrive at a bit of a flat spot where cattle graze in the upper valley meadows

It's not level for long but we enjoy the reprieve as we look ahead; yep we're going up there...

There was a bench here and we took a little break (about 5 minutes). We could have filled our water bottles here.

 and upwards

 The spikey peaks are named  the Aiguilles de la Pennaz

  
LaBalme up ahead. See the college students on the trail up ahead leaving after their break.

We had a Coke here and sat to rest for about 10 minutes. This local man married a Vietnamese woman and lives in Vietnam most of the year. He comes back to open this small refuge/restaurant for the short season.

Looking back down the trail at where we had come from early in the morning and we're still headed up ....

 Looking back (see the tiny houses to the right; that's LaBalme, where we had the Coke.

 Snow melting

 Power lines up here ...

 Looking back down always amazes me

  
The Plan de Dame (pile of stones) - said to be the spot where an English woman perished

Elevation 6,702 feet. We began the day at 3,800 feet.

 Still smiling but it's an effort ....

the trail

Little did we know at this point that we would encounter our first snow crossing just ahead

 It was a bit frightening because we could not see any trail markings. We found boot prints and followed them ... hoping

 Looking back after we crossed

 Looking back down to the first snow patch we crossed

  
That's Stoney ahead; he wants to get to the top!

 He waits for me ....

 On the saddle of Col du Bonhomme is a small wooden shelter. We're at 7,641 feet now. There are 4 men inside taking a break for lunch. It is so cold and windy up here and it is beginning to rain. The couple from our hotel last night come in for a break. They are headed to Refuge des Mottets but plan to take the higher route.  We try to eat a little, put on our rain jackets, gloves and head back out.

Yep - more snow to cross and the winds were probably around 40 miles per hour. We are headed up a little and to the right... Because the weather seemed to be deteriorating, we chose not to attempt the Col des Fours route which goes up higher although that was the route that would take us to our room for the night at Refuge de Mottets. One of the professors who walks this yearly suggested we change plans and head to Les Chapieux.

 Looking back again

Looking down at a beautiful lake as we continue up; the clouds cleared for this view!

 Another snow crossing up ahead

  
Stoney ventures forth - our trekking poles really helped us.

  
He makes it and waits for me ....

Guys headed in the opposite direction pass me. I guess it was good to be heading up rather than down; it was slushy and slippery.

 The summit of Col de la Croix du Bonhohomme at 8,146 ft.

  
and we begin to head down, down, down

 In the above picture see the little house at the end of the snow field - that's the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme. We stopped in for a break of about 30 minutes and a snack. This would have been a good stopping place for the night but we had reservations further on ...

Back out - the weather is clearing - we are now headed for Les Chapieux where we hope to get a ride to Refuge des Mottets. The English professors and their students were headed to Les Chapieux for the night. They do the trip every year and know the manager. They thought he could drive us to Refuge des Mottets. Here's hoping ....

 Stoney was ahead of me and tried to jump the sheep fence; he didn't make it and said the people to his left laughed at him. Thankfully, I was too far behind to see his mishap. He lowered the fence for me.

Could that be the Auberge de la Nova at Les Chapieux?

 YES!!!!  Thank God! These are the professors leading the students from England. They had arranged a ride for us to Refuge des Mottets.

The drive was probably 10-15 minutes on a narrow winding dirt road. Not sure I could have made it walking. 

 Dining room building of Refuge des Mottets

Front door

Dorm building

What a view

 Our private room was in this building

 I was incapable of taking pictures at this point apparently; our room was towards the end on left

Such a sweet refuge for the night. We had to hurry and shower because dinner was to be served in 30 minutes.

 Our window with a view

 A better picture of the dorm building; we didn't go inside so I don't know how many beds

 Our dinner companions as well as breakfast -- two Israeli navy men and a man from Spain who was running the complete Tour du Mont Blanc in 8 days. All three took the high route that we avoided and said it was very frightening. There was so much snow on the trail that they had difficulty seeing the trail and the wind, snow and sleet didn't help. They all fell numerous times. SO GLAD we made the decision not to go that route even if it meant having to take a ride for a short distance.

After dinner we went straight to bed. This is a sheet made like a sleeping bag. Nice. The down comforter was very warm.

Stoney prepares his pack for the morning ....